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Il dado, il filo, la chiave, l’anello, lo specchio, il bottone e la sfera sono cose semplici che incontriamo quotidianamente, ma di cui spesso ci dimentichiamo, perché la cultura contemporanea sempre più si lascia ammaliare dalla complessità dei sistemi e dalla leggerezza delle realtà virtuali. Questo saggio, facendo il controcanto alle cinque Lezioni americane di Italo Calvino, esamina come le "cose semplici" di fatto spesso dimostrino la loro importanza nella semplicità, nella lentezza, nella pesantezza, nella singolarità, nella stessa invisibilità.
Look closely at any typically "American" article of clothing these days, and you may be surprised to see a Japanese label inside. From high-end denim to oxford button-downs, Japanese designers have taken the classic American look—known as ametora, or "American traditional"—and turned it into a huge business for companies like Uniqlo, Kamakura Shirts, Evisu, and Kapital. This phenomenon is part of a long dialogue between Japanese and American fashion; in fact, many of the basic items and traditions of the modern American wardrobe are alive and well today thanks to the stewardship of Japanese consumers and fashion cognoscenti, who ritualized and preserved these American styles during periods when they were out of vogue in their native land.I
London Fashion Week is the pinnacle of the fashion season, and it features an array of native designers, from Burberry and Vivenne Westwood to Alexander McQueen and Nicole Farhi. The roots of London’s place as the international epicenter of haute couture and prêt-à-porter stretch back centuries, and they are explored here by Alistair O’Neill.Arguing that fashion was central to the impact of modernity in late nineteenth- and twentieth-century London, O’Neill maps the progress of fashion against the city’s neighborhoods and streets.
It is easy to view fashion as an entirely modern concept. Costume historians, in fact, trace the birth of fashion back to the thirteenth century and writings on fashion date back as early as the sixteenth century. This classic fashion writing has profoundly shaped our understanding of modern day dress―from the psychology of clothes to collective fashion trends. Its impact, however, has not previously been recognized.Fashion Foundations fills this major gap in the history of the discipline. This key text reprints a collection of pioneering fashion statements.
Victorian Fashion Accessories takes the reader on a fascinating tour of the world of women’s accessories and, in doing so, gives a sweeping view of nineteenth-century British cultural history. A woman’s accessories were always much more than incidental finishing touches to elaborate dress. For example, the color and material makeup of a pair of gloves indicated her class aspirations. A "language of the fan" evolved so a lady could secretly communicate with potential lovers. The Sun reflecting through rose-colored parasols gave the illusion that a woman of a certain age looked young again.
While much attention has been paid to the making of Paris in the work of writers and artists, little is known about the city as defined and created by the fashion media. Filling this gap in studies of the French capital, this original and illuminating book focuses on how the French fashion press–with its rich conjunction of words and images–has been able to construct Paris as a leading world fashion city.Based in an original analysis of fashion writing and images in contemporary French fashion magazines and newspapers, the book shows how the fashion media have been central to the consecration of the city of Paris on the fashion map, as well as its celebration in the collective imaginary.
For a decade, Jenny Gucci lived a life that most women can only dream of. Married to Paolo Gucci, one of the wealthiest men in the world, she stayed at the world’s most exclusive locations and kept company with celebrities and royalty. But such privilege came at a price and the darker side of Paolo’s personality began to take over. Desperate to break away from the influence of the family, Jenny instigated a divorce from Paolo—a move that left her homeless, penniless, hungry, and facing weekly court confrontations that would last for 10 years.
This volume presents papers delivered at the 24th Annual Klutznick Harris Symposium, held at Creighton University in October 2011. The contributors look at all aspects of the intimate relationship between Jews and clothing, through case studies from ancient, medieval, recent, and contemporary history. Papers explore topics ranging from Jewish leadership in the textile industry, through the art of fashion in 19th century Vienna, to the use of clothing as a badge of ethnic identity, in both secular and religious contexts.
This history of coiffure in modern France illuminates a host of important twentieth-century issues: the course of fashion, the travails of small business in a modern economy, the complexities of labour reform, the failure of the Popular Front, the temptations of Pétainism, all accompanied by a parade of waves, chignons, and curls.
Amin, one of the most influential economists today, examines the changing notion of crisis in capitalism; misconceptions of the free market model; the various distortions of Marx’s method; the role of culture in revolutions; the decline of the "law of value" in economics; the philosophical roots of postmodernism; how telecommunications affect ideology; and the myth of "pure economics."
In the fourteenth century, garish ornaments, bright colors, gilt, and military effects helped usher in the age of fashion in Italy. Over a short span of years important matters began to turn on the cut of a sleeve. Fashion influenced consumption and provided a stimulus that drove demand for goods and turned wealthy townspeople into enthusiastic consumers. Making wise decisions about the alarmingly expensive goods that composed a fashionable wardrobe became a matter of pressing concern, especially when the market caught on and became awash in cheaper editions of luxury wares.F
These superb color plates by Hippolyte Pauquet and his brother Polydore, reproduced directly from a rare and valuable nineteenth-century publication, magnificently depict 500 years of French fashion. Starting with the flamboyant headgear and voluminous robes of fifteenth-century royalty, the artfully rendered illustrations progress chronologically to the high-waisted Empire styles of the Napoleonic era. Members of the nobility and upper classes are well represented here. Portraits of lavishly garbed court ladies and gentlemen — many in fur-trimmed robes — appear next to dapper pages and handsome knights.
Exuberantly written reference presents a kaleidoscopic panorama of clothing styles worn in period covering the last years of George III to latter part of Victoria’s reign. Charming descriptions and illustrations of such authentic outfits as a French court dress (1818), Garibaldi shirt (1861), and evening dress (1865). 200 black-and-white, 27 color illustrations.
Far from being a frivolous subject, fashion is the supreme expression of the contemporary spirit. Sartorial elements embody the pace and rhythm of modern society and culture as few other ideas or commodities do. Indeed, the hallmarks of la modernité found their most immediate reflection in la mode. But no one until now has attempted a rigorous analysis of fashion, on a par with attempts to construct a philosophy of art, music, or literature. In this book Ulrich Lehmann sets out to do just that. He explores the interplay between philosophical ideas and fashion, reading texts and textiles, discourse and dresses, to investigate modernity from a variety of perspectives: artistic, philosophical, sociological, and historical.T
Everywhere in the world there is a close connection between the clothes we wear and our political expression. To date, few scholars have explored what clothing means in 20th-century Africa and the diaspora. In Fashioning Africa, an international group of anthropologists, historians, and art historians bring rich and diverse perspectives to this fascinating topic. From clothing as an expression of freedom in early colonial Zanzibar to Somali women’s headcovering in inner-city Minneapolis, these essays explore the power of dress in African and pan-African settings.
Following 150 years of fashion, Christopher Breward offers a catholic view of this colorful and flamboyant universe, describing its trends, products, and inhabitants. From Haute Couture, High Street, and developing fabric technology to such stars of the fashion heavens as Coco Chanel, Giorgio Armani, and Alexander McQueen, Breward explores territories far beyond style and function. He sees more than just an industry, giving voice to the larger cultural phenomenon fashion has become.Breward’s discerning view captures the glamorous world of Vogue and advertising; the relationship between fashion and film, and fashion as a business; and goes beyond the surface to consider individual interaction with fashion.
Edith Head was perhaps the most famous Hollywood costume designer of all time. Long before Rachel Zoe, Andrea Leibermann, Estee Stanley, and Nicole Chavez were styling Hollywood celebrities, eight-time Oscar Award-winning Edith Head was the sartorial sensation behind the silver screen’s most high-profile stars and starlets. The Dress Doctor, adapted from her 1959 autobiography and enhanced with lavish illustrations of her most famous dresses by artist Bill Donovan, revisits the Golden Age of Hollywood with entertaining anecdotes about dressing some of the town’s biggest legends—Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly, Cary Grant, and Marlene Dietrich, to name a few.
Marilyn Monroe made history by standing over a subway grating in a white pleated halter dress designed by William Travilla. Hubert de Givenchy immortalized the Little Black Dress with a single opening scene in Breakfast at Tiffany’s. A red nylon jacket signaled to audiences that James Dean was a Rebel Without a Cause. For more than a century, costume designers have left indelible impressions on moviegoers’ minds. Yet until now, so little has been known about the designers themselves and their work to complement and enrich stories through fashion.C
Titanic Style explores the world of fashion and dress at the time of RMS Titanic’s famous voyage. We are taken through the wardrobes of passengers and crew of all classes and ages, from the most intimate undergarments to the warm overcoats needed on that last fearful cold night. The ship was a microcosm of post-Edwardian society, in which everyone belonged to a particular class and dressed accordingly. The luxurious attire of the ladies in first class, the cream of European and American society, was changed several times a day, while the more sober and conservative clothes of the men of all ranks subtly conveyed their status, and children were dressed to enhance their social standing.
This extensive work dedicated to the unique textile art of Bhutan is an impressive illustration of how closely art, spirituality, and life are interwoven in the last of the Buddhist kingdoms in the Himalayas. It gives new insight into Bhutanese cosmology, worldview, culture, and society, which is associated with a variety of historical, philosophical, religious, social, and artistic perspectives.
The smoothly metallic portraits, nudes and still lifes of Tamara de Lempicka encapsulate the spirit of Art Deco and the Jazz Age, and reflect the elegant and hedonistic life-style of a wealthy, glamorous and privileged elite in Paris between the two World Wars.Combining a formidable classical technique with elements borrowed from Cubism, de Lempicka’s art represented the ultimate in fashionable modernity while looking back for inspiration to such master portraitists as Ingres and Bronzino.This book celebrates the sleek and streamlined beauty of her best work in the 1920s and 30s.
It was in 1946 that the world first came to hear of a coral atoll in the Marshall Islands called Bikini. The following year, French couturier Louis Réard borrowed the name and applied it to a bathing costume for women. Breaking from decades of conformity, Réard dared to ‘undress’ women’s bodies in order to better emphasize what remained clothed – albeit in tiny wisps of material. By taking up the bikini as popular beachwear, women also found themselves thinking differently about their bodies. An ideal of perfection was reinforced by the appearance on the cinema screen of stars such as Marilyn Monroe, Brigitte Bardot and Ursula Andress, all of whom were featured in bikinis that accentuated their own curvaceous contours.M
A gorgeously illustrated companion to the fashion documentary of the same name, Scatter My Ashes at Bergdorf Goodman is an unforgettable collection of anecdotes, from the hilarious to the poignant, in commemoration of the internationally renowned luxury specialty store’s 111th anniversary. With delightful remembrances from celebrities, designers, and highly regarded fashion insiders—from Manolo Blahnik, Marc Jacobs, and Vera Wang to Joan Rivers, Susan Lucci, and Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen—Scatter My Ashes at Bergdorf Goodman also features a foreword by fashion writer Holly Brubach, as well as art and photography from major advertising campaigns and original vintage sketches created by Bergdorf at the collection presentations of designers such as Lanvin, Chanel, and Balenciaga.
Showing all 23 results